VIDEO: Shop-Made Pneumatic Press

Hi folks, just a quick YouTube video of a pneumatic press I made to provide the correct pressure when setting the thermal adhesive tape I use to mount the LEDs in my lights.

Comparing LED color temperatures

So when you look at a data sheet and order a 4500K LED you know what you are getting right? Right? Wrong. With respect to LED bins, tints, and output specs we research a world of absolutes but we live in world of ambiguity. I took the photo below to illustrate the point. The same color temperature in different model LEDs looks different.

LEFT (MCE 6500K & 4500K) / RIGHT (XML 6500K & 4500K)

On the left is the Cree MCE in 6500K and 4500K. On the right is the Cree XML in 6500K and 4500K. I don't care what the data sheet says because the look different and that's all that counts. I don't bring this up to say it's bad in any way, I just mean that we should be aware that these sorts of things are not at all absolute. There are a lot of variables that go into the appearance of LED light. We haven't talked about tint for example. But my point is that you shouldn't expect to different models of LED, with the same specs on paper, to appear the same to your eyes in real life.

Copper: building character with use

I made a limited edition run of 10 solid copper Alphas, and people often ask me why I would do such a thing. First, because it's awesome. If you've never held a pound of copper in your hand, it's pretty impressive...like the first time you lift a gold bar. Okay, that one's still on the bucket list. You might consider a copper Alpha as a baby step.

Stage 1: a nice patina from people handling the light

Seriously though, many collectors like copper lights because they tarnish very easily and develop a patina that is unique to their owner and patterns of use. I think it's strongly related to the Japanese aesthetic of "wabi sabi." Other than being fun to say, the concept revolves around finding beauty in impermanence and imperfection. Objects that show their history are capable of a dialogue that more permanent objects are not.

The nice thing about copper is that you can also clean the slate and start over from new: enter Nevr-Dull!

Details: Mechanical Strength

Hi Everyone,

Happy New Year! I thought I'd start of 2012 by getting into some nitty-gritty details on the Alpha. People often ask me why my lights are different. I usually answer with the question, "how much time do you have?"

Some of you have probably seen the video of my impact testing, but I took some stills to show the damage and explain why the Alpha can stand up to the abuse that you see in the video. This is the actual light and it's still 100% functional. It just looks ugly.

"Busted" but not broken

One thing that sets my lights apart is attention to every possible detail. Any design can (and should) be improved and I'm not claiming perfection, but I pay attention to things a lot of people don't. So, here is the first of several mini-segments on the details that you can see......and some that are buried inside...most of which you will probably never notice :)

Read on after the jump for the rest of the details.

VIDEO: Indoor and Outdoor Beamshots!

Hi all,

I've been working on getting some better video of the flashlight beam. It's really hard to get everything set up right, but here is my first attempt with my new camera! Cheers, Jason.

"I Recommend": G-Wizard Calculator (for machinists)

If you couldn't tell by the title--Warning: machinist's content & business content (if you are a machinist) after the jump

Okay, I have a notebook with a list of things I think are AWESOME. Most of the time I forget to write things down on that list, but I have a few and thought I'd start sharing them on my blog. These things aren't necessarily flashlight related, but if they apply to you, they will change your life. Bold claim eh? But I'm serious. I'm going to call this segment, "I Recommend..." I can't think of a better product to start with that Bob Warfield's G-Wizard machining calculator. It's like having a master machinist in your back pocket. Normally that would be really uncomfortable...but not with G-Wizard. You should really stop reading this and download the trial from this link right: here.

A perfect example of what the internet should be used for

From time to time I have an ah-ha moment when things suddenly become clear. This little piece of incredibly sophisticated software brought me one of those moments. The quick story: machinist and software engineer (Bob Warfield) decided one day to take on a little pet project, and G-Wizard is the result. First, this is what the power of the internet is all about. Second, it's well designed. Third, it's something every machine shop should have...especially small ones. I'll tackle those points in order, after the jump...so read on!

Production Run #1 For Sale Now! (...also a few design changes)

Hi everyone,

I'm excited to announce that Production Run #1 is now for sale in the store! In this post I'll update you on the new features and changes. One of the most exciting is my custom titanium pocket clip. I designed it myself and had it waterjet cut, just up the road, at Keller Industries in San Carlos, CA.

Waterjet from .040" CP2 Titanium

You'll have to check out the store for more images of the clip attached to my lights. The good news is, you can remove/install it without any tools and it doesn't require permanent (and ugly) screw holes for attachment. Making this work (and accommodating the new switch) required a significant re-design of the tailcap. Highlights of the design changes:

1. McClicky tailcap switch
2. Provision for the "no-tools" Ti pocket clip
3. Improved fit for all 18650 batteries (protected, unprotected, flat top, button top) 
4. More LED/Driver options (subject of a separate post, so stay tuned)
5. Serial numbers! 

More detailed info after the jump so read on...

Integrating Sphere: up and running!

Woah, what is an integrating sphere!? Don't worry, it's not as fancy as it sounds. It's basically a doohickey that lets me take direct measurements of the lumen output of my lights. A lot of companies list the "laboratory rated" lumens of a light which is typically 25% higher than the lumens you actually get OTF (Out The Front). Only reputable companies actually measure the output of their lights. Less reputable companies just "make up whatever sounds good at the time." Really, I'n not kidding. If you want to hear a rant about that let me know. For now, back on topic.

In this shot the light is actually "on" 

Typically an integrating sphere is a multi-thousand dollar piece of lab equipment. The other alternative is home brew. Giant styrofoam ball, a lolly pop looking thing, a couple holes, and a high quality light mete...viola. It's not perfect, but it's a whole lot better than guessing. This sphere should be accurate to within +/- 5% of the actual output. The design is a tried-and-true method developed by several CPF members. It was nice not to re-invent the wheel (this time). More info after the jump!

Torture Test: personal best (300ft for 5 hours)

OFFICIALLY TESTED TO 300 FEET FOR 5 HOURS 

This post is an update to the original pressure test post.

I had some more time today and took one light down to 300 feet for 5 hours and it passed without a problem. I did have to remove the safety pressure release valve that was preventing me from going above 110 PSI. 

I should note this does NOT mean the MC18-B is a dive light. The rubber tailcap switch collapses around 50ft and will render the switch inoperable. This does not damage the switch and does not compromise the seal...it just means the button gets stuck down. A different type of switch would have to be used for dive applications. 

The only thing I can think to say is BOOYAH!

I'm pretty sure the MC18-B is now THE most waterproof land-based flashlight in the world. I'd be happy to have someone prove me wrong; just send me a link! If there is competition out there, I want to know. 

WIN!: the MC18-B is water proof to 220 feet...tested!

High pressure? No problem! I have to admit, the result surprised even me. I made this pressure tank months ago when I was building dive lights and never got around to testing one of my land lights. I was hoping for 30 feet of water resistance. That would already beat most lights that are not "dive-rated." Long story short: I tested three lights at 220 feet for 2 hours! Tomorrow I'm going to take one light and test it to failure or 300 feet, whichever comes first. 300 feet is equivalent to 130 PSI (10 PSI shy of the pressure limit on the test vessel). You might want to stay tuned for this one :) 

95 PSI = 220ft of water (black hand).
The red hand is a "set hand" like on an alarm clock. 

Nearly every manufacturer that I'm aware of rates their lights (excluding dive lights) as "water resistant" or "weather proof" but little else. This means you can take them in the bath tub or walk your dog in the rain...but that's about it. Some manufacturers list a rating called IPX-8: "The equipment is suitable for continuous immersion in water under conditions which shall be specified by the manufacturer." Most flashlight manufacturers fail to indicate what those conditions are even though they list an IPX-8 rating...so their rating is essentially meaningless. I'd guess they are still fine for bathtub duty though. 

Part of the reason for testing these lights is so that I can articulate the "conditions specified by the manufacturer" instead of throwing around fancy industry codes that no one understands anyway. Something like "Waterproof to xxx feet." 

For details on the tank and testing procedure, read on after the jump...

What you should know about chargers

Disclaimer: this is not my primary area of expertise so I don't claim to be an expert. I've spent many hours researching the topic and this is what I've found so far.

Chargers are a critical component with respect to lithium ion batteries. Very critical. There are a lot of chargers out there and based on my research, I can only recommend two. The first is the Pila IBC. Bar none, this charger has the best reputation. However, it charges 2 cells at a time and retails for nearly 50 dollars. 

I selected the Xtar MP1 charger because it's high quality.

Only one other charger compares, but it's twice the price and thrice as ugly. 

The second is the Xtar MP1. This is the charger I'll be selling along with my lights. Xtar is a relatively new company but so far their product seems to be top notch. I like the industrial design and this charger has the advantage (unlike the Pila) of being USB based. This means you can plug it into your laptop, use a wall adapter, or even a car adapter for charging. I like this flexibility for a general purpose charger. The MP1 is also a single bay charger and this is great for the more casual user that only owns a few lights. I purchase these directly from the manufacturer and will be selling these chargers separately and as a package deal with my lights. 

If you want to get more technical, read on after the jump. If are a hardcore "input" person you can check out Battery University for tons (and tons) of information.

Haas VF-1 machining tail cap & PCB sleeve (video)

Hi all, I shot a new video a couple of days ago so check it out!

srfreddy's question answered!

WARNING: FLASHAHOLIC CONTENT

srfreddy said:

"In your "DtD Update: surprising success!" post, the shot is the head, right? Does the head and the tailcap screw off? I'm interested in your heatsinking. The driver is on a copper "pole" of sorts, which isolates the driver, and will concentrate heat, and how is the heatsink for the LED itself? I see you are using 7135 linear drivers-how many? If a user decides to use 2xCR123s or RCRs, the 7135s will be putting out over 5 watts of heat!"

Yes, that's an image of the back of the head. Both the head and tailcap unscrew from the body. 

The driver in this photo is a Shiningbeam 1.4A driver

I'm using a Shiningbeam 3 mode 2.8 amp driver that has components on both sides of the board. The copper sleeve is actually the heat-sink for the driver. This sleeve is press fit into the back of the head. The LED is on a 20mm star and thermally bonded to a solid, one-piece aluminum head...so my expectation is the thermal path is about as good as it can get without soldering the LED directly to a copper pill.

You can check the Shiningbeam site for driver specs but I think it accepts a maximum of 6 volts, so you can use 2x CR123 (primary) batteries but you can not use 2x RCR123 (rechargeable) batteries. However, I'm not sure that CR123 primaries can handle that much current draw. Someone else might have to weigh in on that one!

This is really intended to be an 18650 light. 

Kendall's question answered!

WARNING: FLASHAHOLIC CONTENT

Kendall the CarpentryHero said...

"Will you make your flashlights with an upgradeable, replaceable Pill like a better version of the P60 and host idea. An upgradeable light even if I'm mailing it in for the upgrade ;-) ?"

Sort of! For those of you that aren't familiar with the terminology, a flashlight "pill" is a component comprised of an LED emitter, driver electronics, and a metallic body to hold those components and act as a heat sink. Sometimes the pill is combined with a reflector to create a "drop in" module. A P60 module is an industry standard size so P60 pills should fit into any P60 host. This is actually an interesting concept and I may do a P60 format light in the future.

A section view of the light head. The walls of the copper
sleeve are actually thicker than what is depicted here.

My current design does not use a "pill" for a few reasons...that I might get into in another post. Suffice to say I think using an LED mounted on a 20mm star MCPCB (Metal Core Printed Circuit Board) is the best option, for me, at this time. The head is a solid, one-piece design to maximize thermal transfer.

One of my primary design principles is "design for disassembly and repair." So yes, these lights will most definitely have the ability to be upgraded with newer LEDs or electronics. One reason I went with the MCBCB is that it makes it really easy for me to swap out LEDs. 

Prototype production run: update

I took these shots on Friday but didn't get around to posting them. I've finished the CNC portion on the bodies, tailcaps, and PCB sleeves. I still have to finish the heads on the CNC and then do some manual machining and surface finishing.

Flashlight bodies hot off the CNC

I think I mentioned this before, but I'll take these bodies to the manual lathe to finish the outside diameter and do the ornamental grooving. Only the ends have been worked by the CNC machine at this point. This is mostly a progress update and there are a couple more photos after the jump.

Prototype production run is under way!

These shots are actually from yesterday. Today I finished the CNC machining of 30 flashlight bodies. When finished, ten of these are heading out into the field for some user testing. 


I haven't picked the testers yet but I'll make an announcement about the same time I complete final assembly of the lights, so stay tuned!


(if you want to get the chance to do cool things like test future designs, be sure and sign up for my email list!)

Anyway, back to nitty gritty. My saw stop worked great and I spent time cutting stock to length while the machine was running parts. I also have to deburr the edge on every part (one end) so that there isn't any interference when clamping the parts in the vise. We need everything to be nice and straight.

Chicago Pneumatic right angle die grinder with an 80 grit abrasive disk
and a bunch of parts waiting to be deburred. 

Right now I'm using the red air grinder with an abrasive disk to deburr...hold the part in left hand, grinder in right hand, rotate part a couple of times. Not real slow, not real fast, but it's on of the things I might need to make more efficient in the future.

WIN!: driver mounting problem...solved

Yesterday was a good day in the shop! The last component I've been hesitating on is a little copper sleeve that holds the LED driver. The typical solution, and the one I have used on past prototypes, is to solder the edge of the board to the edge of the PCB (Printed Circuit Board) holder. This provides the necessary electrical contact and also holds the PCB in place. You can see this method used on the left image. Oh, and we are looking at the back of the flashlight head where the body threads in. The little spring contacts the (+) top of the battery.

Prototype solution (left) and final solution (right)

The soldering solution is "okay" but a bit unreliable from an assembly standpoint. The technical problem is that the copper conducts heat extremely well, making it hard to solder. The large copper mass rapidly pulls the heat out of the soldering iron, cooling it to a temperature too low for soldering. Another issue that you can see in the left photo is the tiny gap between the PCB and the copper rim. The solder does not want to cross gaps so you are forced to "blob" it on, using more than necessary. It also looks crude.

Tools for tools: Making a saw stop

WARNING: MACHINING CONTENT

One of the most common uses for tools, is making other tools. At least that's the joke among machinists...we don't actually make stuff, we just make tools. I'm not sure the previous was a complete sentence, but I recently had the need to up the ante on my efficiency. Each light has four main components that need to be machined. So, if I am making a batch of 20 lights, that makes 80 pieces of stock that I need to cut off from 10-12 foot bars. Kind of a pain, and 20 is a pretty small number. Time to make a depth stop for my chop saw.

The DeWalt Multi-Cutter is a low RPM chop saw
designed specifically for metal cutting. 

I made the stand for the saw back in welding school when I was living in Boston. Remember that Tushar? In any case, it's served me well but it's time for an upgrade. Most of my work is "one-sies" or "two-sies" so measuring each cut isn't that big of a deal. One of my quirks; however, is that I hate repetitive work...but love refining processes. That is to say, I can handle some repetition if I'm always learning something and working to make it better.

DtD Update: Soft jaws are finished!

Got the soft jaws finished up yesterday! Now it's time to start cutting some parts and tweak the programming. I've already done the body machining and tailcap machining. Today I'm going to be working on the head and the small copper post that holds the electronics.

DtD Update: machining soft jaws

So I'm starting this Day to Day (DtD) Update thing so you can see the drudgery associated with the bright lights and big city stuff. 

I had to have some bearings replaced on my mill before I could get to making actual parts. That was finished last week and I've been doing the last of the programming. So far I have about 70 separate programs to make this little light. That means there are 70 "operations"...not including the manual operations. For example: cutting all of the stock to length, sanding down the edges so they are smooth and even, etc. More on that in a future post. Suffice to say, there is a lot of work to do outside of the actual machining. Most of it is manual, and this is the kind of labor that kills product margins.

Soft jaws before machining

So yesterday and the day before I have been cutting the "soft jaws" that will hold my components that need to be machined. They need to be extremely precise and one mistake means they are ruined. Each jaw will have five separate locations machined...so that is five chances to wreck the whole thing. Ask me how I know.