NEW: Primary Seal Ring DIY Kit

Hi Folks,

As most of you know, I've been installing the Primary Seal Ring in both Ready-Made and Blue-Label lights for the past few months.  Now those of you have have pre-PSR lights can order your own kit if you are feeling crafty. If not, you can return the light for an upgrade. Just to recap, the PSR is a 100% custom made part from Smalley Steel Ring Co., engineered specifically for sealing the Alpha window.

Primary Seal Ring (PSR) and nylon-jaw installation pliers

DIY Upgrade: Pricing is on the sales page of my website :)

I really (really) recommend getting the nylon-jaw pliers if you plan to DIY. See the "note" below. I do not warranty any damage you do to your own light :)

Mail-In Upgrade: The cost to send in a Ready-Made light for upgrade is $20  This covers the ring, the labor to install it, a thorough cleaning of the light, replacement of any o-rings that need it, and return shipping. Blue-Label owners pay only $5 for return shipping. The PSR and installation is provided (free) as part of the Blue-Label "Lifetime Upgrade" program. Membership has it's privileges as they say :)

If you want to send your light, please email me in advance to make arrangements: jason@darksucks.com

PLEASE NOTE: The nylon-jaw pliers are an option when you order a PSR kit. I spent months trying to find the best pliers for the job, in order to make DIY installations easy and reduce the chance you will damage the light during the install.

Doing an install with the bent-nose pliers I use in the video is tricky! The nylon pliers are dead simple.

Each installation deforms the jaws very slightly, because the jaws are nylon and the ring is stainless steel. However, you should get 6+ installations out of a set of jaws...so essentially a lifetime of use. I do sell extra sets of the nylon jaws if you are the kind of person that always likes to have a backup :)

NEW FEATURE: Alpha Primary Seal Ring (PSR)

As you know by now, I can't leave well enough alone. I pressure tested my lights to 300 feet for 5 hours...but that's just not good enough is it? What can make the Alpha even more bullet proof (water bullets)? Enter the Alpha Primary Seal Ring (PSR). It doesn't increase the depth rating, but it should extend the exposure time and improve the sealing performance under extreme physical conditions, like impact, vibration, temperature, altitude, and submersion.

Actually, it would be cool to carry an Alpha up to the snowy summit of a mountain and then down to the ocean and into a 300ft scuba dive. Anyone want to meet me in New Zealand?

The PSR makes the front seal 110% effective (that's a guesstimate)

As far as I know, this is also a completely novel method for sealing a flashlight. Patent worthy even, but now I've done it, since I posted this picture it can't be patented...by anyone...and I think that's fair :) I digress.

This ring is custom made from 302 stainless steel, just for me, by Smalley Steel Ring Co. out of Lake Zurich, Illinois. It is now a standard feature on all Alpha lights. It does make it a little harder to remove the o-ring and get to the lens, but you should really never need to do this unless the glass get broken or severely scratched over time.

Just in case you feel the urge, you'll need four things: o-ring pick, bent nose pliers, a replacement o-ring, and the link to this video. The pick and pliers are included with the Journeyman Package. They can also be purchased separately.

I do want to note, this seal is not absolutely necessary. I tested my light to 300 feet for 5 hours without the PSR in place. Unless your light is routinely in wet environments, I wouldn't worry about it. However, I want to send out a light that is as close to 100% reliable as possible, and this checks off one of the boxes that has been bothering me.

The PSR will be available as an optional upgrade for all existing Alphas, but not until the new year when things quiet down a bit. Please don't email me until then or I will just forget :) Alpha-Blue label owners, this is a free upgrade!

Why Zipper Pulls?

So someone asked me why the heck they should buy a zipper pull when zippers already have them. I thought of a bunch of snarky responses, but my professional response: I don't know. What I do know is that I (and other people) like to take mass-produced things and give them a little personality, and perhaps some added functionality, by customizing them.

Here is your mission: open this bag...quick!
Ohhh, can't find the black on black zipper pulls on a black bag? Sorrrrrry.

I took the clunky (and black) zipper pulls off of my camera bag and replaced them with some awesome ones! First, they look cool. Second, the high-vis orange means that I can actually find the zippers when I need to open the bag. The black ones blend in and I spend precious seconds searching for the opening instead of getting my gear out and shooting. I mean really camera bag people...do you even use the stuff that you make? Fortunately (for me) they don't seem to. Zipper pulls: WIN!

Details: Mechanical Strength

Hi Everyone,

Happy New Year! I thought I'd start of 2012 by getting into some nitty-gritty details on the Alpha. People often ask me why my lights are different. I usually answer with the question, "how much time do you have?"

Some of you have probably seen the video of my impact testing, but I took some stills to show the damage and explain why the Alpha can stand up to the abuse that you see in the video. This is the actual light and it's still 100% functional. It just looks ugly.

"Busted" but not broken

One thing that sets my lights apart is attention to every possible detail. Any design can (and should) be improved and I'm not claiming perfection, but I pay attention to things a lot of people don't. So, here is the first of several mini-segments on the details that you can see......and some that are buried inside...most of which you will probably never notice :)

Read on after the jump for the rest of the details.

VIDEO: Table Top Review

So I got an email from a guy named Trent a couple weeks ago asking if I'd do a "table top review" of the Alpha. Here it is! I couldn't afford to spend a ton of time editing so please excuse the roughness. I hope to be doing a bunch more videos in the future so please let me know if you have any requests!

WIN! Alpha Ti clips also fit Surefire, Solarforce, Elzetta and others

I had a pretty amazing (and fortunate) discovery the other day. It turns out that the stock Alpha clip fits a large variety of tactical flashlights as well. If you'd like to order one, just click this link. I'm also offering flame coloring on these clips as well. Let me know if you have any questions!

Each clip ships with 1x black o-ring and 1x GITD o-ring...

An o-ring (included) is needed for proper fit

Add a locator to your light with the GITD o-ring option! 

These clips are confirmed to fit the following lights. Please let me know if you discover others!

Surefire:

1. 6P
2. G2X Pro
3. 6PX Pro

Solarforce:

1. L2
2. L2T

Elzetta:

1. 2 cell
2. 3 cell

Flame Colored Pocket Clips

Is this cool or what? I've done some flame coloring of Ti before so it occurred to me that I should play around with these pocket clips. They are so small it's hard to accomplish but I've never seen anyone do this with a Ti clip before. The colors go great with the natural warmth of the nickel coloring. I'm more about photos than blabbering on these days so here you go.

Reminds me of a peacock! 

This looks pretty awesome if you ask me! I've decided to offer this option for $5.00 with the purchase of any clip. Since these are done by hand, each one is a little different and a unique work in it's own right. As such, I don't take requests for a specific appearance...you just get what you get. I know, it's a little risky. Feeling crazy though?

Don't forget to click for a larger image! 

VIDEO: Indoor and Outdoor Beamshots!

Hi all,

I've been working on getting some better video of the flashlight beam. It's really hard to get everything set up right, but here is my first attempt with my new camera! Cheers, Jason.

New Accessory: Presentation Bag

I'm pleased to announce I have a new accessory available: the Presentation Bag. Several customers, giving an Alpha light as a gift, requested something special to dress up their presentation. Another customer travels a lot and has decided to carry an Alpha full time, for those "unexpected" situations. He wanted to keep it in his carry-on but didn't like the idea of it being loose and beating up the other contents.

Perfectly sized for the Alpha

The Presentation Bag is the answer to both of those requests. Made of furniture grade velvet, the two-tone bag looks great and will take a beating. Pull straps are genuine leather. Adding a little color is fun but it's also functional; it's easier to see when you are searching for the light in your bag.

Each bag is hand-tailored in small volume, just like my lights. Would you expect anything less? Visit the store to purchase!

Launched new version of my site

Hi folks,

Just wanted to let you know I launched a new version of my site today. Please let me know what you like, what you don't like, and if you find any bugs or bad links. Thanks for doing QC for me :)

One new change is to the way I name my lights. Figured it was better to change early than late. So, now this first design is henceforth, herewith, thereby knows as the Alpha Series. Within that series are several different LED options...one available now...and one coming soon.

The current new LED option: Cree XML. About the same output in lumens but it has a brighter hot spot (more focused) and a bit longer range. Please check it out and let me know what you think!

Production Run #1 For Sale Now! (...also a few design changes)

Hi everyone,

I'm excited to announce that Production Run #1 is now for sale in the store! In this post I'll update you on the new features and changes. One of the most exciting is my custom titanium pocket clip. I designed it myself and had it waterjet cut, just up the road, at Keller Industries in San Carlos, CA.

Waterjet from .040" CP2 Titanium

You'll have to check out the store for more images of the clip attached to my lights. The good news is, you can remove/install it without any tools and it doesn't require permanent (and ugly) screw holes for attachment. Making this work (and accommodating the new switch) required a significant re-design of the tailcap. Highlights of the design changes:

1. McClicky tailcap switch
2. Provision for the "no-tools" Ti pocket clip
3. Improved fit for all 18650 batteries (protected, unprotected, flat top, button top) 
4. More LED/Driver options (subject of a separate post, so stay tuned)
5. Serial numbers! 

More detailed info after the jump so read on...

Glow in the dark o-ring fun

Just a quick update. I'm working with a new Cree LED called the "XML." It's a little bit brighter than the MCE (about 50 lumens) and it has a smaller hot spot (a little bit more throw) because the surface of the LED is smaller than the MCE. It's hard to notice the difference unless you are comparing side-by-side. However, since the LED is smaller I've discovered a fun option: glow in the dark o-rings!

No, glow technology has not progressed since the 80's so the effect is mostly for show. 

I tested this configuration in my integrating sphere (it measures brightness) and there is no perceptible loss of performance by putting the o-ring around the LED. This will not work with the MCE since that LED fills the entire opening of the reflector.

When ordering, let me know if this is an option you are interested in. It's not officially available on my store yet but...I know a guy that can hook you up.

Torture Test: personal best (300ft for 5 hours)

OFFICIALLY TESTED TO 300 FEET FOR 5 HOURS 

This post is an update to the original pressure test post.

I had some more time today and took one light down to 300 feet for 5 hours and it passed without a problem. I did have to remove the safety pressure release valve that was preventing me from going above 110 PSI. 

I should note this does NOT mean the MC18-B is a dive light. The rubber tailcap switch collapses around 50ft and will render the switch inoperable. This does not damage the switch and does not compromise the seal...it just means the button gets stuck down. A different type of switch would have to be used for dive applications. 

The only thing I can think to say is BOOYAH!

I'm pretty sure the MC18-B is now THE most waterproof land-based flashlight in the world. I'd be happy to have someone prove me wrong; just send me a link! If there is competition out there, I want to know. 

WIN!: the MC18-B is water proof to 220 feet...tested!

High pressure? No problem! I have to admit, the result surprised even me. I made this pressure tank months ago when I was building dive lights and never got around to testing one of my land lights. I was hoping for 30 feet of water resistance. That would already beat most lights that are not "dive-rated." Long story short: I tested three lights at 220 feet for 2 hours! Tomorrow I'm going to take one light and test it to failure or 300 feet, whichever comes first. 300 feet is equivalent to 130 PSI (10 PSI shy of the pressure limit on the test vessel). You might want to stay tuned for this one :) 

95 PSI = 220ft of water (black hand).
The red hand is a "set hand" like on an alarm clock. 

Nearly every manufacturer that I'm aware of rates their lights (excluding dive lights) as "water resistant" or "weather proof" but little else. This means you can take them in the bath tub or walk your dog in the rain...but that's about it. Some manufacturers list a rating called IPX-8: "The equipment is suitable for continuous immersion in water under conditions which shall be specified by the manufacturer." Most flashlight manufacturers fail to indicate what those conditions are even though they list an IPX-8 rating...so their rating is essentially meaningless. I'd guess they are still fine for bathtub duty though. 

Part of the reason for testing these lights is so that I can articulate the "conditions specified by the manufacturer" instead of throwing around fancy industry codes that no one understands anyway. Something like "Waterproof to xxx feet." 

For details on the tank and testing procedure, read on after the jump...

Size Comparison and a Possible Name!

This is a super quick post but some people have been asking about size and I thought it would be useful to post this scale shot. Keep in mind that these light vary widely in terms of power and battery type.

I also thought this might be a good time to talk about the name for the product (not the company). I enjoy a good metaphorical name from time to time like the gladiator, super nova, or death star...but they are meaningless. I'm often frustrated by companies that name their selection of products random things when what I need to make a decision is actual information. You know, so I can decide which one of their products I want to buy? Throw me a friggin' bone here.

Anyway, here is the (proposed) name for my first light: MC18-B. After you get over the fact that it's excruciatingly boring here is my thinking...MC stands for Cree MC-E (the type of LED). 18 stands for 18650 (the battery type/size). B stands for Ledil Boom (the type of reflector/optic). If I ever build another variation, these are the three main features that are apt to change, and that you need to know if you are trying to pick out a light. Thoughts? I must admit, I like a good alpha-numeric name. Try and persuade me otherwise :)

Do I need to point out which one is my light? 

LEFT TO RIGHT:

1. Maglite (2x D batteries)
2. Icon Rogue (2x AA batteries)
3. Mini Maglite (2x AA batteries)
4. MC18-B (1x 18650 battery)
5. Dorcy Xenon (2x CR123 batteries)
6. Surefire E1-B (1x CR 123 battery) 

Seth's question answered!

SethML said...

"How is this more than just some batteries, an LED, and a switch stuck in a fancy housing? Now's your chance to talk about Lithium-Ion battery charging/balancing, constant-current LED drivers, brightness modes, etc!"

In many ways these lights are exactly what you describe, and assemblage of components. However, I think these lights are unique on two levels. One, I make every one by hand. Two, there are a lot of components out there in the world and I've selected the absolute best and integrated them into an incredibly optimized, high-performance system. The only way these lights will get better is when I have enough volume to justify designing and manufacturing the components I currently buy off the shelf.

Exploded View: click the image for a super size version

BATTERIES AND CHARGERS:
I've already posted on batteries and chargers so you can navigate to those links for more info. Suffice to say battery technology has come an incredibly long way in the last five years. Modern li-ion batteries have no memory and significant energy density. If it was a car it would have both a huge gas tank and tons of horsepower.

Modern batteries are also capable of extremely high current output when compared to standard alkaline batteries. LED lights that run on alkalines (most LED lights on the market) are low output because alkaline batteries simply can't deliver the current needed to motivate a high power LED into releasing its lumens.

What you should know about chargers

Disclaimer: this is not my primary area of expertise so I don't claim to be an expert. I've spent many hours researching the topic and this is what I've found so far.

Chargers are a critical component with respect to lithium ion batteries. Very critical. There are a lot of chargers out there and based on my research, I can only recommend two. The first is the Pila IBC. Bar none, this charger has the best reputation. However, it charges 2 cells at a time and retails for nearly 50 dollars. 

I selected the Xtar MP1 charger because it's high quality.

Only one other charger compares, but it's twice the price and thrice as ugly. 

The second is the Xtar MP1. This is the charger I'll be selling along with my lights. Xtar is a relatively new company but so far their product seems to be top notch. I like the industrial design and this charger has the advantage (unlike the Pila) of being USB based. This means you can plug it into your laptop, use a wall adapter, or even a car adapter for charging. I like this flexibility for a general purpose charger. The MP1 is also a single bay charger and this is great for the more casual user that only owns a few lights. I purchase these directly from the manufacturer and will be selling these chargers separately and as a package deal with my lights. 

If you want to get more technical, read on after the jump. If are a hardcore "input" person you can check out Battery University for tons (and tons) of information.

Alex's question answered!

In case you can't tell I'm trying to knock out some of these questions!

Alex said...
"PS... Dark does suck. My question is... is "focused beam" the way to tackle the suckiness. Maybe "make a 5 foot diameter around me feel like the day"... Just a thought."

Actually, a lot of people ask about focusing. It's one of the top five questions I think. Darn you Maglite! Here is my take (special applications aside). For general "I can't see in the dark" use, these lights are so powerful you get both long range throw and close range flood all at the same time. It basically makes focusing obsolete (special applications aside).

As four your special request, "make a 5 foot diameter around me feel like the day." Would you settle for a 10 foot diameter of day? That's all I got.

Stanley's question answered!

Stanley said...

"Was talking to Kingston tonight... he wants to get a flashlight for testing. Wanted to know how long the batteries last in the different power modes."

I haven't done any run time testing yet so my values are approximate and based on calculations with 80% driver efficiency. 80% is also a best guess for this type of linear LED driver, but it's pretty conservative so I'm hoping actual run times will be equal to, or better than, what I've listed below. Does anyone want (or know how) to test my driver efficiency?  

High (500 lumens) = 90 minutes @ 2.8 Amps

Medium (180 lumens) = 250 minutes @ 1.0 Amps

Low (30 lumens) = 1,800 minutes @ .14 Amps

Kendall's question answered!

WARNING: FLASHAHOLIC CONTENT

Kendall the CarpentryHero said...

"Will you make your flashlights with an upgradeable, replaceable Pill like a better version of the P60 and host idea. An upgradeable light even if I'm mailing it in for the upgrade ;-) ?"

Sort of! For those of you that aren't familiar with the terminology, a flashlight "pill" is a component comprised of an LED emitter, driver electronics, and a metallic body to hold those components and act as a heat sink. Sometimes the pill is combined with a reflector to create a "drop in" module. A P60 module is an industry standard size so P60 pills should fit into any P60 host. This is actually an interesting concept and I may do a P60 format light in the future.

A section view of the light head. The walls of the copper
sleeve are actually thicker than what is depicted here.

My current design does not use a "pill" for a few reasons...that I might get into in another post. Suffice to say I think using an LED mounted on a 20mm star MCPCB (Metal Core Printed Circuit Board) is the best option, for me, at this time. The head is a solid, one-piece design to maximize thermal transfer.

One of my primary design principles is "design for disassembly and repair." So yes, these lights will most definitely have the ability to be upgraded with newer LEDs or electronics. One reason I went with the MCBCB is that it makes it really easy for me to swap out LEDs.