Prototype solution (left) and final solution (right) |
So, my next solution was to use a copper sleeve that has twice the wall thickness (on the right). I machined the seat so the PCB sits slightly below the rim of the copper sleeve. Then I used a cold chisel and a small hammer to peen the rim of the sleeve, folding it over the edge of the PCB. I was going to then solder this junction. However, it seems so solid that I won't have to use solder at all. Electrical contact is made in the two small peened areas, but also along the entire back rim of the board.
The main thing I'm excited about is that it looks much cleaner! You can click on the image above for a larger view. This one looks a little bit scrappy because I had to remove the PCB twice...which is actually another win. This means I can take it apart and put it back together without destroying the original components.
I'm working with the principle, "design for disassembly and repair." This means I need to be able to easily break everything down into its component parts. Many products use components that are permanently assembled, requiring component replacement as opposed to repair. I just don't believe this is good design and it's certainly not responsible design. I'm excited this is turning out to be such an excellent solution and is really the last engineering challenge I had to solve.
I think you are going to have problems with the copper to copper connection. Copper corrodes over time (remember using a pencil eraser to clean contacts on electronics and such?)
ReplyDeleteMight want to consider using one of the contact-improving fluids to keep the corrosion away and the power flowing. I use R5 from Caig. http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.A/id.1610/.f?sc=2&category=188.
The really best way would be to gold flash the contact points. Maybe from Creswell (I haven't use them myself) http://www.caswellplating.com/electroplating-anodizing/gold-plating-kits/gold-brush-plating.html
Skip Adrian gave me your contact information.
Hi Mike,
ReplyDeleteThanks for the note. There is actually no copper-to-copper connection in the light. The copper is pressed into the nickel plated body, and the gold plated driver is pressed into the copper.
I haven't had any issues with oxidation yet but I see your point about "potential" oxidation. My thought was that the parts are pressed together so where they contact, there is no opportunity for air to oxidize the surfaces. However, I'm actually going to be going in two different directions on this issue so stay tuned :)